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Autumn/Winter 2010-2011



Originality, above all, is expressed with conviction in this new Emporio Armani collection. There is an unexpected fusion of classical elegance with a fresh approach to proportions. The disciplined design aesthetic intrinsic to Armani is evident here, of course, but there is a touch of irony in the interpretation.

The collection possesses a cosmopolitan mood that is conveyed through the modern interplay of line and colour, given added impact by the accessories of our "uptown girl", who is fully aware that the codes of an established luxury universe can be interpreted with a natural ease, even to the point of nonchalance.

Daywear explores a rediscovered fashion lexicon, apparent in the choice of colours: the aristocratic palette of taupe, dove grey, beige (graduating from near grey to near pink), slate and cloudy grey is augmented with asphalt merging into black and a show stopping shade of brick. The treatment of fur (eco-friendly, of course) is surprising and unusual – sometimes sumptuous and rippling like bearskin, sometimes clipped smooth to match the intarsia of fabric and velvet, or alternatively given a hounds tooth look with piping in patent and strongly defined shoulders.

The sophisticated attitude to construction, emphasised by hyper-feminine and precious fabrics such as organza – or occasionally by semi techno materials – restores the caban to centre stage. This appears as either a long or a short jacket, but it is always flowing with an undulating grace to reveal a certain haute couture pedigree. In a similar vein, the masculine cashmere overcoats with their somewhat broad shoulders, so generous that they seem to have been grabbed hastily from a boyfriend's wardrobe, exude the unique DNA of Armani. These are brilliantly set off by the contemporary fizz of the mini skirts and vintage look ankle boots.

Throughout the entire collection one encounters a refined exchange between masculine and feminine that represents the very essence of Armani projected forward into the future, breaking all the rules in order to rewrite them for today. This is a world where the jackets, pleated at the back, are made of organza, where a man's chalk stripe waistcoat takes the place of a T-shirt and where shirts evolve into featherweight super feminine tops in the soft and delicate colours of the dawn.

Every dress and every outfit is enhanced by accessories possessing an exceptional personality: bags – both big and small – favour rigid outlines and are presented in precious leather effects including snake, crocodile and leopard skin, in positive eye catching colours; shoes come in neat precise shapes with retro references; a collaret in black- and flesh-colour brushed nappa, leitmotiv of the show, recurs throughout the collection; there is a scratch mark across the impeccable masculine suit; a foulard is worn with overcoats and jackets, for a feisty Amazon look; there is a beguiling necklace on floaty cloud-coloured dresses, additionally embellished with a huge spiralling rose.

Dressing for a night out is a joyful experience – our "uptown girl" revels in the subtlety and contrast of fine tailoring and beautiful details. Look for the all-over sequins in a variety of sizes and a startling shade of mosaic blue for jackets, which are almost always worn with short chiselled skirts that sway with every step. Either alone or in groups, roses figure repeatedly on skirts or at the neckline of blouses. The warm, sensuous shade of brick emphasises the severe and precise structure of jackets and dresses, with their graphic design details. Touches of white set off the glossy black sequins and teardrops that adorn the petite sculpted dresses – always sleek and svelte, these reflect the way women love to dress today.

Credit: Armani Press Office

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